Cover of Barbarian Days

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Barbarian Days

A Surfing Life

by William Finnegan

$5.00

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In stock now - this copy by William Finnegan is on our shelves in Wynnum, waiting for you. Come say hello and take it home today - we’re at 1/140 Bay Terrace, Wynnum.

ConditionPoor
ISBN9781472151414
PublisherOrbit Books
Published2016-05-01
GenreSport, surfing, Autobiographies/Biographies

Description

WINNER OF THE PULITZER PRIZE FOR BIOGRAPHY 2016 WINNER OF THE 2016 WILLIAM HILL SPORTS BOOK OF THE YEAR PRIZE Surfing only looks like a sport. To devotees, it is something else entirely: a beautiful addiction, a mental and physical study, a passionate way of life. William Finnegan first started surfing as a young boy in California and Hawaii. Barbarian Days is his immersive memoir of a life spent travelling the world chasing waves through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa and beyond. Finnegan describes the edgy yet enduring brotherhood forged among the swell of the surf; and recalling his own apprenticeship to the world's most famous and challenging waves, he considers the intense relationship formed between man, board and water. Barbarian Days is an old-school adventure story, a social history, an extraordinary exploration of one man's gradual mastering of an exacting and little-understood art. It is a memoir of dangerous obsession and enchantment.